Old Trails in Lee County Illinois
In the spring of the year 1825, Oliver
W. Kellogg desiring to travel to the lead mines, located in
Northwestern Illinois and Southwestern Wisconsin, started from
Peoria in his wagon for that purpose. He crossed Rock River east
of Dixon about three miles and passed through the prairie lying
between Polo and Mount Morris, touching the western part of West
Grove and continuing northerly and northwesterly to Galena.
Prior to this time, the people of Peoria had very much desired a
shorter cut to the mines than that afforded by the Mississippi
if pursued along its banks by land, and few cared to take the
tedious route by keel boat up that river. But prior to the
breaking of a trail by Mr. Kellogg, no one cared to brave the
hardships of the trip and the perils from the Indians. So soon
however as Mr. Kellogg had blazed this trail many others during
the summer followed it, some with teams, more on foot, and all
camping out. From its maker, the trail was named Kellogg's
Trail.
By reference to the map it will be
noticed that Kellogg's trail was still too circuitous for the
desired short cut, bearing too far east, and the travelers
having obtained a taste for a short route to the mines, demanded
a still shorter one to take off the curves from Kellogg's.
Accordingly John Boles, traveling across the country in the
spring of 1826, left the beaten track of Kellogg, some distance
south of Rock River, crossed that stream where Dixon now stands,
just a little above the spot where stands the present Illinois
Central bridge, passed up through the country about a mile east
of Polo; north to White Oak Grove, half a mile west of
Forreston, thence through Crane's Grove and so on to Galena.
This route being much preferable to the old Kellogg's trail, it
became immediately the popularly traveled route and was named
Boles' trail.
This trail was used exclusively for
three years following and a few years ago traces left of it
might be seen then east of Polo on the prairie, and to this very
minute, worn down into the ground across Mr. Edward H.
Brewster's estate of Hazelwood just outside of Dixon, the old
trail is discernible.
During the season of 1826, travel over
this Boles' route was about double that of the preceding summer
and autumn, demonstrating the American mania for short cuts even
so far back as the year 1826, when ox teams were the vogue.
Travel commenced again early in the year 1827. In the month of
March, 1827, Elisha Doty, later a citizen of Polo, went to Dixon
from Peoria. The river was still frozen. He attempted to cross
the river on the ice; but before proceeding very far, the ice
began to give way and he was obliged to give up the attempt and
return to the south bank. He made the statement later to the
editor of Bross's history that while waiting on the south bank
of the river, just before starting on his return, about two
hundred teams had collected there, all bound for Galena.
Mr. Doty lived in Polo subsequently for
many years. When catechized upon the point he gave us facts
never incorporated before in a history of Lee County because
they were unknown to the historians, and he attached to them the
accuracy which history demands. Thus early in the history of the
state, Dixon became a place of prime importance.
The "Lewistown trail," opened a little
later than Kellogg's trail, passed Rock River a little above
Prophetstown in Whiteside County, but this was little used, the
Dixon route being preferable.
T. C. Ankeny, son of John Ankeny who was
one of the first settlers of Buffalo Grove (Polo), wrote a
sketch of his father, John Ankeny in 1883, for the Ogle County
Press, in which he says, "In 1829, by act of the legislature,
he, John Ankeny, with John McDonald and another man, was
appointed to view and lay out a state road from Apple River to
Osier's Ferry on Rock River, now city of Dixon. December 25th of
that year, he, with the other commissioners and surveying party,
in pursuance of their mission, camped in a grove by a creek
which for the vast quantity of buffalo bones covering acres of
ground, about the head of the creek east of the grove, they gave
the name of Buffalo' to the grove and the stream."
As the session laws for a considerable
period to 1829 are silent upon the point, it is more than likely
that Mr. Ankeny is mistaken and that his father received his
authority from the commissioners of Jo Daviess County, or Peoria
County. As a matter of fact, those viewers were appointed by the
county commissioners and through the very great kindness of Mr.
J. C. Scott of Galena, I am able to reproduce their report; also
some other valuable information contained in Scott's letter.
Galena, Illinois, Sept. 27, 1913
Me. Frank E. Stevens, Dixon, Illinois.
Dear Sir: Your letter to county clerk inquiring the names of the
viewers who located a road from Rock River to Galena in 1829 was
referred to me. Herewith is enclosed copy of their report as
appears of record.
The County Commissioners Court of Jo Daviess County, Illinois,
on March 8, 1829, appointed John Brookie, Levi Warner and Alvin
Humphrey Viewers to locate a road from Bowman & Co.'s Mill on
Buffalo creek to Knox's mill on Elkhorn creek. Levi Warner signs
as "Dept. Cty. Surv." In this survey Timothy Widifield, Zalmon
Livermore and George R. Webster acted as chainmen.
January 7, 1833, the General Assembly of the State of Illinois
passed an "Act providing for the location of a road from Chicago
to Galena.'' Joseph Naper acted as Commissioner and G. W. Snow
as surveyor. The survey was commenced May 30, 1833, at the
northeast comer of Lake and West Water streets.
In the notes is the following:
"N. 20° 00' W. Across Rock River at Dixon's Ferry 102 miles 15
chains, 58 1-3 links."
Following the surveyors' notes the following report is made:
"Galena -
From Chicago to Dixon's Ferry the Rout generally a high & dry
prairie and no expense of consequence will be necessary to open
a road with the exception of the streams.
"There is passable fords to all of them.
"From Dixon's to Galena the general line of the present road has
been followed, very hilly but a tolerable good road $500 will
probably be sufficient for a good road the whole distance."
This road is sometimes called the Galena & Chicago road and
other times the Galena & Peoria road.
Trusting what is sent you will prove satisfactory I am,
Respectfully yours,
J. C. Scott.
Report: Viewers Of The Road From The
Woodbine Spring To O'Gee's
To the Honorable the County Commissioners Court of Jo Daviess
County, State of Illinois:
We, the undersigned subscribers being
duly appointed by said Court at their November term to view and
lay out a road from the Woodbine Springs to Joseph O'Gee's Ferry
on Rock river beg leave to report: That we commenced at the
place and proceeded to the latter, following the Lewistown road
about five miles there took across south 50 degrees east for
O'Gee ferry. Then finding ourselves about to strike one mile
above said ferry, on our returning examined the country to
Buffalo creek about ten miles where touching our line from
thence to Elk creek at a lone tree about five miles, thence to
Middle creek three miles, thence to Straddle creek four miles,
thence to Crains Grove three miles, thence to East Plum river
four miles, thence to West Plum river four miles, thence to the
Lewistown road two miles, thence along said road to the
beginning five miles.
We find the ground excellent and find
fords on the different streams and at this time the U. S. Mail
is running it, and we deem it essential to have the road
confirmed and supervisors appointed to open and work the same,
as wide as the balance of the road from Woodbine Springs to
Galena.
And the undersigned subscribers beg
leave to further suggest that three districts should be made.
1st. Commencing at the ferry on Fever River to extend to the
west bank of Apple River.
2nd. Beginning on the east bank of said Apple River and extend
to the west bank of Plum River.
3rd. Beginning on the east bank of Plum River to extend to Rock
River and include J. O'Gees residence and such hands as may be
living with him subject to labor on highways.
We would moreover state that we employed Colonel Flack as
surveyor and A. Hamlin as axman under a full conviction that
your Honorable Body will compensate them for their services.
Chas. D. St. Vrain,
John McDonald,
John Ankeny.
Apple River, March 1, 1830.
It will be perceived in this narrative
that he speaks of Ogee's Ferry as Osier's Ferry. He is nearer
right than is the pronunciation, Ogee's ferry. While Ogee
spelled his name as given here, it was pronounced Ozya. Osier,
reduced to the French mode of pronunciation would exclude the
terminating consonant and give us the pronunciation, Oz-ya, with
the first or long sound of O.
The name Ogee would not be called a
French name exactly. The old French engages were not particular
about their orthography, and if by calling and writing a name
Ogee rather than Osier, Ogee would be easier, we may rest
assured Ogee would be used.
Both Father John Dixon and Miss Louise
Dixon while living told the writer that Ogee pronounced his name
Oz-ya or with the French inflection, Oz-yiah, emphasis on the
first syllable.
While discussing the point I may as well
introduce at this point a letter from the late Dr. Reuben G.
Thwaites which sheds a great deal of light on the subject of
Ogee's origin and his name:
Sept. 15, 1913. Mr. Frank E. Stevens,
Dixon, Illinois.
Dear Sir: In response to yours of the 4th:
The records of the wandering French Canadian traders are very
hard to trace; illiterate themselves, almost nothing is known or
written about them. You doubtless know Mrs. Kinzie's reference
in Waubun to Joseph Ogee. The name was doubtless Auge, a common
French-Canadian family name. Tanguay's "Dictionaire
Genealogique'' gives a Joseph Auge, who married Aug. 15, 1820, a
Sioux woman. There was likewise a Joseph Auge with the Northwest
Fur Company in 1799 on Red River of the North. This may possibly
have been the same as our Illinois Joseph, for after the
amalgamation of the Northwest Fur Company with the Hudson's Bay
in 1821, many of the employees were thrown out of employment and
drifted about. Many sought Prairie du Chien, and started out
from thence south and southeast. Joseph Auge was probably a
half-breed son of the Mackinac merchant Michel Auge who was an
important character there during the British regime. One Etienne
Auge was in 1744 lessee of the post of Green Bay and was
murdered by a Menominee Indian.
Yours very truly,
R. G. Thwaites, Superintendent.
In the month of May, 1833, when Dixon's
ferry had reached a considerable dignity, Levi Warner and two
other men, were appointed by the commissioners of Jo Daviess
County "o view and admeasure and lay out a road between Galena
and Peoria,'' which they did, and Mr. Warner certified the
distance to be 145 miles and 26 and 25/100 chains. The route ran
through Dixon's ferry and on through to O. W. Kellogg's place in
Buffalo Grove and on to Elkhorn creek to Isaac Chambers' hotel
at Chambers' grove. He reached his old friend Chambers' house on
May 31st. On June 1st he continued on his way and remained over
Sunday, June 2nd, at Thomas Grain's, then known as Grain's Fort.
At the home of John D. Winters, near Elizabeth, this sturdy
bachelor met his future wife, a comely widow, Martha Winters,
formerly Martha Bailey of Cincinnati. He completed his survey to
Galena, June 6, 1833. His field notes show it was eleven miles
from Peoria to station 29, an open prairie known as LaSalle.
Station 37 at Meredith's house was nineteen miles from Peoria.
The north line of Peoria County was twenty-one miles, which he
reached May 23d, and he makes the note, "good selection for a
road thus far.''
Continuing north ten degrees, west sixty
chains, he came to a large prairie extending to Rock River.
Thirty-two miles from Peoria he came to
the south branch of Crow creek running from west to east, to
bridge which would require a length of fifty links and a cost
for construction, $12.
Station 45; from Fort Clark as Peoria
was called in its infancy, to Boyd's Grove was thirty-six miles
in a general course north, eight degrees west. Station 53 was
north fifty-nine degrees east, 1,250 chains, to Bureau creek to
cross which would require a bridge 150 links long and a cost to
build it of $100. Between stations 57 and 58, he ran close to a
Mr. Shirley's and a grove. For the six miles before reaching
that point the ground was a level prairie. He arrived at that
point on Sunday, May 26th, and it was between fifty-four and
fifty-five miles from Peoria. The general course from here to
Joseph Smith's house (Dad Joe's place), was mostly north
seventeen degrees east. Smith's house was situated in the point
of a small grove of timber on a very high elevation of ground.
The road ran about one chain east of Smith's house. From Mr.
Shirley's to Smith's point the ground was good for a road.
Smith's was sixty-three miles from Peoria and was in Jo Daviess
County, about three miles north of the then county line, so says
Mr. Smith's son. The course to Inlet timber, north, eleven
degrees, east to Inlet creek, sixty-nine miles from Peoria. The
cost of a bridge across this creek, he estimated to be $150.
At this point it may be serviceable to
note that while the water course was called Inlet then, it
should not be confounded with the commonly accepted Inlet creek
of today.
From a high point between stations 61
and 62, as noted by Mr. Warner, there was a high bluff from
which point the grove at the ferry on Rock River and the grove
at Mr. Smith's were both in open view at the same time. "From
which point, I should think a straight road, or nearly so, might
be located on good ground. "From thence to Galena, the bearings
were something like or near north, ten degrees west.
From Peoria to Rock River at Dixon's
ferry, it measured eighty miles and 56.50 chains. Mr. Warner
reached Dixon's ferry May 29, 1833. Across Rock River from bank
to bank, the distance was 9.90 chains. "Rock River is a
beautiful stream; rocky bottom and healthy water,'' Mr. Warner
wrote at the time.
Warner's course from Rock river to
Kellogg's place at Buffalo grove, was north and about
twenty-eight to forty degrees west. From Peoria to Kellogg's
place he made the distance ninety-one miles and fifty-five
chains ( Kellogg's was on the south bank of Buffalo creek).
Mr. Warner estimated that the bridge
needed for Buffalo creek would have to be one chain in length
and the cost would be $25; the width of the stream was
twenty-five links. He reached that point Thursday, May 30, 1833.
The general direction from Kellogg's to
Chambers' was north, thirty-four degrees to sixty degrees, west.
From Peoria the distance was ninety-eight miles. He was at
Chambers' Friday, May 31st. On Sunday, June 2d, he had reached a
point opposite and about fifty links east of Thomas Crain's, 108
miles, 55 chains from Peoria. From Crain's to east fork of Plum
River, the course varied from north, sixty-two degrees west to
north, thirty-one degrees west. The cost to bridge the stream
was set at $50. The length of the bridge would need to be one
chain; the bridge 112 or 133 miles from Peoria. The course from
Plum river to middle fork of Plum river was first, north, eight
degrees west, and later south by seventy-seven degrees west,
then north seventy-two degrees west. The bridge at this point
would cost about $5, and it was between 117 and 118 miles from
Peoria. The road reached the main stream of Plum river about 119
miles from Peoria, to bridge which, 100 links, $50 was needed.
This point was reached June 3d. The route to Flack's was
generally north by forty to seventy degrees. Flack's was 126
miles and fifteen chains from the place of beginning. From there
the road to Apple river ran a northwesterly course, varying from
north twenty-six degrees west to north eighty-eight degrees
west. Of the river, Warner says, "course from east to west,
beautiful current of water about 1.75 chains wide; good
fording."
On Tuesday, June 4th, he was at Winters'
place, about twenty-five links east of John D. Winters' house,
and 132 miles and twenty-three chains from Peoria. From Winters'
to Morrison's door in Galena, it was about thirteen miles,
general direction north by eighty-seven to eighty-two degrees
west.
Mr. Warner reached Galena, June 6th,
making the distance 145 miles and 26.25 chains.
For the above very valuable information,
I am indebted to Mr. J. W. Clinton, of Polo.
John D. Winters was a stage driver or
mail carrier on this route for a considerable period. Isaac
Rucker, who died but recently, also drove stage on this route
from 1834 to 1837 on the Winters' line of stages, and very
fortunately for us, Mr. Clinton secured from him the names of
his stops, which were as follows: Dixon to Buffalo Grove, twelve
miles; Buffalo Grove to Cherry Grove, eighteen miles; Cherry
Grove to West Plum river, which was Kellogg 's old place in
Stephenson county, twelve miles; from West Plum river to Apple
river, twelve miles, and from Apple river to Galena, fifteen
miles.
From Dixon south to Dad Joe's Grove, the
distance was twenty miles; from Dad Joe's Grove to Princeton,
fifteen miles; from Princeton to Boyd's Grove, fifteen miles;
from Boyd's Grove to Northhampton, twenty miles; from
Northhampton to Silliman's, fifteen miles; from Silliman's to
Peoria, twenty miles. These figures, 105 miles, make a total
above Surveyor Warner's of some-thing like twenty-five miles,
which must be accounted for by detours made by the stage drivers
from the regular and original line run by Warner.
When Indians were present, the method of
crossing Rock River was simple. Winnebago Indians in numbers
were found at this point then and rather thickly settled along
the banks. Moreover they were very friendly with the whites,
acquiescing readily in all requests to oblige them with their
simple methods of ferrying over the river. Two canoes were
placed side by side. Into one of these the two wheels of one
side of a wagon were placed, and into the other, the two wheels
of the other side of the wagon were placed. In this position,
the Indians easily ferried wagons across the river. The horses
were made to swim. Once across, the horses were hitched again to
the wagon and the traveler proceeded on towards Galena.
When, however, the Indians were absent,
as was too frequently the case, the inconvenience was very
great, as fording was impossible except at rare intervals.
Delays became so exasperating that John
L. Bogardus of Peoria in the year 1827 resolved to construct a
ferry boat and establish it at this point. For this purpose he
sent up from Peoria a man who built a "shanty" eight by ten on
the banks of the stream who remained in it a short while until
Bogardus sent up a Mr. Doty, a carpenter, and father of the
Elisha Doty already mentioned, who with the first arrival
started to build the ferry boat. When about half completed, the
Indians burned it and advised Mr. Doty and his assistant to
return to Peoria. The advice was accepted without argument.
Parenthetically, it may be said of Bogardus, that he had been
educated for the law; but in Peoria he had been mixed up
considerably with ferries. In Ballance's history of Peoria, he
is put down as a "sharper.''
This trail had become so important to
the whites, however, that the failure of the Bogardus venture
but strengthened their determination to equip Rock River with a
ferry and be no longer dependent on the whims or habits of the
Indians.
More than this, the route had become so
important and travel had become so heavy that the Government had
ordered a mail route to follow it, deflecting just enough to go
to Gratiot's Grove over into Wisconsin.
When it came time to bid for this
profitable job, Mr. John Dixon, then clerk of the county
commissioners court of Peoria County and recorder, threw in a
bid for it. Later it was awarded to him and he took with him to
the crossing Joseph Ogee, there to establish the ferry. Being
one-half Indian, Ogee was not disturbed and Mr. Dixon found
favor with them for his enterprise and Ogee launched his boat in
the spring of 1828; a boat propelled across the stream by poles,
the passengers generally taking a pole and assist-ing in the
work sometimes arduous enough. This ferry started from the south
bank of the stream and landed on the north side wherever good or
bad fortune dictated, or perhaps I should say wherever the
current of that day dictated; high and low water of course had
their influence on that decree.
This method of "poling" continued until
the year 1830 when Mr. Dixon bought the ferry from Ogee. During
this period of practically two years Ogee occupied the hut built
for Bogardus by the latter's representative.
Joseph Ogee was a Frenchman living at
Peoria in the year 1828. For a long while he had acted as
interpreter between the whites' and the Indians. He must have
been a person of average consequence, at least in the year 1825,
because I find in H. W. Wells' "The Schools and Teachers of
Early Peoria," in a letter written by Mrs. Maria Harkness, who
taught school in Peoria in May, 1826, that Ogee was one of her
patrons and sent his children to her school to be taught. The
same John L. Bogardus was another patron. Judge Latham, the
Indian agent, and John Dixon were others. The number of patrons
was eleven and the number of pupils was thirty. The tuition
charged was $1.50 per pupil for a term of three months, and the
teacher, then Miss Waters, boarded round.
The school was commenced in a log cabin
owned by William Holland, the village blacksmith, where it was
continued but one week because there were no windows and no
light except the open door. Beginning with the second week, the
school was moved to Ogee's "new hewed log cabin." This cabin
must have been built about the year 1825 because James Eads, who
attended the first school ever taught in Peoria (in 1821 or 1822
and by James Grant) in referring to the Ogee cabin says, "Ogee's
hewed log cabin which was famous afterwards as a schoolhouse and
courthouse was not built for two or three years afterwards.''
Ogee's cabin stood on the bank of the
Illinois River "near the Fort Clark Mill site and near the
bridge." Just prior to the Black Hawk War in 1832 it was still
used as a schoolhouse and in 1834 when the first courthouse was
built it was still used as a courthouse.
Ballance describes it as a cabin 16x18
near the present site of the Fort Clark Mill.
Ogee figured in the first trial held in
his cabin-courthouse and the first criminal case tried in the
courts of Peoria County; where fore a brief notice of it should
follow while on the subject of the founder of the ferry at
Dixon.
Some question has been raised about
Ogee's blood. He was not a full blood Frenchman; he was a half
breed, French and Indian. Judge David McCullough, who wrote the
best history of Peoria County ever published, knew intimately
all about Ogee while ho resided at and near Peoria. Judge
McCullough calls him a half breed.
Another indisputable authority is the
record of the trial of the first murder case in Peoria County,
and by the way, it mentions not only Ogee, but Father John
Dixon, who was clerk of the court, so that Dixon people took an
active part in the trial.
Nom-a-que was a Pottawatomie Indian,
living far from Peoria on the Illinois River. He wanted to reach
Opa (Wesley City) opposite the Bureau River. He reached it only
to find the trading point abandoned. It had been moved across
the river to Peoria. Waiting for means to cross, a canoe bearing
a hunter appeared. When the canoe grated on the beach, the
hunter threw his paddle across the gunwales of the boat and
greeted the Indian. To the delight of Nom-a-que the greeting was
in the language of the Pottawatomies.
Nom-a-que told the hunter he had
traveled long and hard, that he wanted to go to the settlement
and that he intended to locate there for the winter. Later, as
the canoe bearing the Indian and the hunter glided gracefully up
the river towards the village, the hunter told Nom-a-que that
his name was Joseph Ogee, that he had come to the trading post
in 1818, and that his wife, who was now waiting for him, was a
Pottawatomie squaw. As the canoe drew near the village beach,
Ogee pointed out a large log cabin that stood near the river,
which he said belonged to him and which was his home. After
hauling the canoe high upon the bank, Ogee led Nom-a-que to his
cabin, where the Indian was given a cordial welcome by the half
breed's squaw.
As Nom-a-que refreshed himself with meat
and drink and the squaw prepared for the evening meal and he
felt welcome in the humble cabin with his new found friends, he
little dreamed that a few weeks later he would be tried for
murder in the same room and cabin. Yet this is what happened,
for he was the first man tried for murder in Peoria County after
the circuit was organized on Nov. 14, 1825.
He had murdered Pierre Laundri, a
Frenchman, during a drunken brawl. After a trial noted for its
many disgraceful exhibitions by counsel, he was convicted. Col.
William S. Hamilton, son of Alexander Hamilton, defended him. He
was convicted and his case was appealed to the Supreme Court and
there after considerable delay, a new trial was given.
There was no jail then, and the expense
was considerable in hiring guards to watch him, but the Indian
made no attempts to escape. He was re-tried and sentenced to be
hanged. But his guard being by that time carelessly maintained,
at the suggestion of his succeeding counsel he escaped.
Subsequently at the battle of Stillman's Run, he was wounded so
desperately that when found by Peorians, he was humanely killed.
The courthouse was Ogee's cabin which I
have mentioned before. At night the jurors slept in the room in
their blankets, on the floor. The cabin is mentioned as standing
on the bank of the river, near where the T. P. & W. bridge lands
on the Peoria side of the river.
The present Lee County was in Peoria
County then. The trial judge was John York Sawyer, the judge who
induced Father Dixon to accept the clerkship of that court, and
Father Dixon acted as clerk at the trial. The whole countryside
attended that trial. Ogee swore to the original complaint, Oct.
4, 1825, before Jacob Wilson, a justice of the peace, and the
offense is charged as having been committed Oct. 2, and on the
fourth the victim died.
Nom-a-que at one time and another was
confined in jail at Springfield, at another in Edwardsville, and
the expense was considerable for those days. I should explain
that after his second conviction, his case was appealed and that
pending a decision, he was permitted to roam at large.
The story is printed in the July number,
1912, of the Journal of the Illinois State Historical Society,
pages 246, et seq.
Thus it will be perceived, another item
in Ogee's life was furnished; he came to the old American Fur
Company's trading point, established by Gurdon S. Hubbard in
1818.
The next notice we have of Lee County
was in the year 1827. In that year, Red Bird, a Winnebago chief,
of Wisconsin, was irritated into a declaration of war against
the whites by the intrigue of the Sioux, and the massacre of a
family of whites at Prairie du Chien followed. Fear for the
Illinois settlements in the lead mines prompted the Illinois
governor to send a battalion of troops thence to assist in
quelling Red Bird's insurrection. After a tedious march to
Galena, it was found that Gen. Henry Atkinson and Col. Henry
Dodge had captured Red Bird and the so called Winnebago War had
been terminated.
Thus even before the establishment of
Ogee's Ferry, this point had attached to itself considerable
importance as a place of rendezvous in times of danger and for
the first time, Dixon became a theatre of war.
Mrs. S. W. Phelps of Lee Center has
given us the best description of the old Peoria trail I have
found. In 1832, her family traveled from Springfield to Galena.
"Then a child of eight, I was the junior member of a party of
five en route from New York City to Galena, Ill. The route was
via Hudson River to Albany, thence across New York State by Erie
Canal to Buffalo, onward by stage to Wheeling, Va., down the
Ohio River and up the Mississippi by steamboat, and without
detentions, required a full month's time.
"Arriving at Springfield, Ill., it was
found to the dismay of the older travelers that the mail stage
would travel no further northward before spring. After days of
search for a good team for sale, my uncle bought a stout pair of
horses, an emigrant wagon, buffalo robes, and provided with a
compass, a large sack of crackers and some dried beef, the best
provisions for emergencies of hunger which the town afforded, we
set forth, soon to leave the 'settlements' behind and to pass
through a wilderness country made still more desolate by the
'Black Hawk War.'
"Stopping places become more infrequent,
till for the latter days of the dreary way they were forty miles
apart, the blackened ruins of cabins now and then marking the
deserted 'claims.' (I do not know of a cabin on the trail burned
in 1832 by the Indians; some other cause must have contributed.
Editor.) Roads, more properly called 'trails' by the
inhabitants, long unused and either overgrown by prairie grass
or burned over by autumnal fires were difficult to follow. Late
in the afternoon of Dec. 13, our wagon halted before a little
cabin known as 'Daddy Joe's'. Daddy Joe had espied us from afar,
and awaited our approach leaning upon the rail fence, smoking a
cob pipe, his rotund figure topped off by a well ventilated
straw hat. , His son, yet a lad, occupied a post of observation
upon a 'top rail,' his head also sheltered from the wintry winds
by a similar structure.
"Winnebago Inlet,' known to early
settlers as a slough of despond, lay between us and Dixon's
Ferry, our haven of rest for the coming night, and my uncle
asked directions to a safe crossing from Daddy Joe. His advice
given between long puffs of his pipe was that we should go no
further that 'evening.' He kindly offered shelter, food and his
son as guide in the morning, as he was sure we could not 'make
the ford' before dark. His assertion that the old ford was
impassable and that the trail to the new was too blind to folks
after night, was assuring, but anxious to push on, my uncle
urged the tired horses to a lively pace. The result proved Daddy
Joe the wiser man. The winter dusk came on all too early, the
'old trail,' too easily mistaken for the new, and in the
uncertain twilight, the horses plunged down the steep, slippery
bank into the black abyss of the 'old ford.' The poor beasts
floundered breast deep in the icy mush, till just beyond
midstream they could go no further. The wagon settled to its bed
and the three feminine occupants climbed upon the trunks in the
rear end, there to perch for several hours. By desperate
struggles an occasional jerk brought us a few inches forward,
after each one the wagon again settling into miry bed. Thus
after several hours of exhausting effort the two men were able
to leap to the shore from the backs of the horses, bye and bye
to land the stronger horse and with his help to pull out his
fellow, now hardly able to stand alone. Then one by one, we were
helped along the tongue of the wagon to terra firma. My aunt,
exhausted by fatigue and fright, was lifted to the back of the
better horse with a buffalo robe as saddle, her husband leading
the horse. Mr. Hull followed coaxing along the other, Miss
Pierce and myself bringing up the rear. We started by the light
of the new risen moon along the trail in ^Indian file' for a
walk of three miles to 'Dixon's Ferry.'
"I recall distinctly the feelings with
which I trudged on in the deep silence of midnight under the
glistening stars over the bound-less prairie. The weary march
ended at last, twinkling lights greeted our eager eyes and as we
quickened our pace the moon-beams revealed a most picturesque,
though somewhat startling scene. White tents gleamed and in
every direction smoldering campfires showed dusky, blanketed
forms crouching or lying prone around them while a few men in
army uniform bearing lanterns moved about with alert step and
keen eye. We halted at once, the ladies greatly alarmed, but the
watchers had noted approaching hoof beats and hurried to
reassure us, explaining that several thousand Indians were there
encamped, for the final settlement of annuities and other
matters included in their recent treaty with the Government. A
moment later we were made welcome to the warmth and comfort of
her neat cabin by Mrs. Dixon, who hastened to make ready a hot,
relishing supper, a royal feast to our famishing appetites.
"Our kind hostess gave up her own soft
bed by the cheerful hearth fire to the ladies, tucking me snugly
away at the foot to a dreamless sleep, finding a resting place
somewhere among her many guests for my uncle and Mr. Hall.
"In the gray of the early dawn, Mr.
Dixon and his stalwart sons started out with oxen, chains and
poles to rescue the abandoned prairie schooner from the Inlet
Slough, returning with it in triumphal procession a few hours
later. Meanwhile, someone had taken me out into the 'great tent'
among the warrior chiefs, adorned with paint and feathers and
earrings, and gorgeous in all the new toggery obtained from the
agents. As we passed around the circle, a painted chief caught
me up in his arms, seating me on his knee, admired and patted my
red cheeks, calling me 'brave squaw, brave squaw,' because I did
not turn pale and run away in fear. All preparations for a fresh
start were soon completed, and we made haste to leave Lee County
soil at least so much of it as we were not compelled to carry
away upon our belongings. But getting away proved no easy
matter. The horses had not been consulted. Once at the river's
brink our troubles began anew. The ferry was a rope ferry, the
boat a flat boat 'poled' across the swift flowing river. The
quivering horses, terrified at sight of the water, refused to
enter the boat. After long and vain urging they finally made a
wild plunge forward which sent the boat spinning from the shore
as they sprang upon the boat, dragging the four wheels of the
wagon with them, the hind wheels dropping into the river, almost
tossing us into the stream. Instantly, Mr. Hall was in the
shallow water with his shoulder to the wheel, and somehow,
between the efforts of the men and horses the whole wagon was
got on board. After a halt upon the shore for advice and thanks
to our friends, and a changing of the soaked garments for dry
ones by the chilled men, their dripping raiment fluttering from
various points of the wagon cover, our long ride to the lead
mines was again resumed."
The old trail from Peoria to Galena
became the most famous trail in the country. Northward a
constant stream poured in the spring to make money from the lead
mines. In the fall the same stream flowed backward. This
movement so like that of the fish called sucker, gave the name
Sucker to the people of Illinois and ever since it has clung to
them.
It is known quite generally that Ogee
was an intemperate man. It is known that he married a
Pottawatomie woman because at the treaty of Prairie du Chi en in
1829, his wife, Madeline, was given a section of ground in
Wyoming Township, Lee County; but for what services, I cannot
tell. The treaty simply recites, "To Madeline, a Pottawatomie
woman, wife of Joseph Ogee, one section west of and adjoining
the tract herein granted to Pierre 'Leclerc,' at the Paw-paw
Grove.'' Ogee did a famous business. For some reason or another,
possibly because he had not complied with the law governing
ferries, Ogee took out a license from Jo Daviess County, Dec. 7,
1829. Possibly it was because a post office was about to be
established at this point. In the year 1829 any way a post
office designated "Ogee's Ferry'' was established and a Mr. Gay
was made postmaster.
From the American State Papers Post
Offices, I made the discovery that the receipts for the first
year of Ogee's Ferry as a post office, ending March 31, 1830,
were $4.64, while from Galena they were the largest in the
state, $824.54; over at Elkhorn they were 48 cents; at Peoria,
$58.82; New Salem, Lincoln's old home, $4.16, and Chicago,
nothing.
Ogee's habits became so lax that rather
than see the ferry lose its prestige, Mr. Dixon took it off his
hands and on April 11, 1830, he moved his family, consisting of
himself, Mrs. Dixon and their five children, to this spot. On
Sept. 29, 1830, he was commissioned postmaster of "Dixon's
Ferry," the new name of the place. As such postmaster, he
continued until the year 1837.
As soon as Father Dixon obtained the
ferry, a new order was introduced; a rope ferry was substituted
for the Ogee method of "poling."
Travel increased along the trail and the
fact that it became known generally that John Dixon was the only
man between Peoria and Galena who had money; settlers were drawn
here, expecting to get work enough from him to pay living
expenses while they were getting their claims cultivated.
This log house was store and tavern
combined and many a famous man has tarried with Father Dixon. Up
and down and down and up, Father Dixon fed and lodged them and
Father Dixon loaned those old Argonauts money. He traded with
the Indians and out of their affectionate regard for him they
named him Na-chu-sa (Head-hair- white). Some have tortured the
name into Nadah-Churah-Sah. Perhaps that was the correct version
and perhaps their explanation is true that the Indian habit of
abbreviation made it sound Na-chu-sa; the last named is the
pronunciation that has come to us by no less an authority than
John Dixon himself.
With Mr. Dixon's settlement here, Ogee
loitered about the ferry until about 1839. Not very long before
Father Dixon bought the ferry from him, his wife, angered at his
worthlessness, threatened to leave him. Quarrels became the rule
rather their the exception, and one day without ceremony, Mrs.
Ogee trailed off under the knowledge and the certain belief that
being rich in her own right, she would not have long to wait
before her hand was sought in marriage, and sure enough it was.
Madeline was a wise lady for an Indian. A man named Job Alcott
living near the present village of Paw Paw married her and
together, man and wife removed to the West with the tribe of
Pottawatomies.
As the records of Lee comity show at
this time, the land was sold to David A. Town, of Paw Paw, the
first settler. The sale was effected by the execution of two
deeds; but as the descriptions were rather vague, a third deed
was executed with something like accuracy.
From an inspection of the treaty of
Prairie du Chien, one would believe that the grant to Madeline
Ogee was in fee simple, but I am told by the Secretary of War
that in all cases, the consent of the Government was required to
alienate a piece of land and that in the case of Mrs. Alcott,
the Government gave that consent to all three transfers.
More than likely some doubting reader
may inquire when and where Madeline got her divorce before
taking on a bigamous husband. Alas I Madeline, charming widow
that she was, not, took Mr. Alcott for better or for worse
without asking consent of any of the courts. A divorce
proceeding was quite unknown and superfluous. Alcott proposed
and she took him before he could escape.
From the execution of the last deed, all
trace of the Alcotts and Ogee vanished. Ogee's disappearance was
the beginning of the end; the passing of the red man from our
land. In the year 1835, the year of the great migration
westward, the last of the Winnebagoes were taken west to their
new reservation. While they remained they traded with Mr. Dixon;
they trusted him implicitly and they carried his fame for
honesty so far into neighboring tribes that while other whites
were molested and robbed and others were murdered, the family of
Mr. Dixon never was disturbed.
During the presence of Black Hawk, in
advance of the troops, he ate at Mr. Dixon's table and Mrs.
Dixon waited upon him. For this notable service Mrs. Dixon had
his affectionate regard.
In another place I have told of the old
account books still owned by Mr. Henry S. Dixon, which Mr. Dixon
kept with the Indians, but I did not include one entry which of
itself should be selected as the brightest piece of humor ever
written about Dixon. The entry is this: "Col. Z. Taylor, To
Mdse., including shirt pattern, $6.50."
And then follows the story of its
liquidation: "Settled by note."
Col. William S. Hamilton, son of
Alexander Hamilton, traveled that famous old trail and stopped
many a time with Father Dixon, and many an item may be found
charged against him for merchandise and money borrowed.
Winfield Scott, a candidate for
President and the general of all the armies, when he came out to
relieve Atkinson, stopped with Father Dixon and he bought goods
too. But the entries show that he was a cash customer.
But those acquaintances and those
credits, like the one to Taylor, had their influence. When in
1840 John Dixon went to Washington to secure the removal of the
United States land office from Galena to Dixon, Zachary Taylor
and Winfield Scott made it their business to assist him with the
result that in 1840 the land office was ordered removed to Dixon
and in 1840 it was removed.
While in 1834 the importance of this
trail was diminished and the Peru and Peoria shipping and
trading points lost in influence to the rising young city of
Chicago, Dixon became a center of larger influence by reason of
the establishment in that year of the mail route by the
Government from Galena through Dixon to Chicago, and with that
year, the history of Lee County may be said to begin.
Stations in Lee County were established
at Inlet, Melugin's Grove and Paw Paw, though for a considerable
period East Paw Paw maintained a higher degree of importance,
than its Lee county namesake. It seems remarkable that
notwithstanding the selection of a north and south route through
Lee County and its use for many years by a constant stream of
travel, few stopped by the wayside to settle in Lee County. The
tide of immigration which began in 1835, came almost entirely
from the east along the Dixon mail and stage road which
traversed the county diagonally from the southeast to the
northwest and while the Peoria trail is but a memory and is an
utter stranger to the maps of today, yet the old Dixon-Chicago
trail today is almost identical with the old 1834 route from
Dixon, clear through to Chicago. After the settlement of the
Dixons here, Mr. John K. Robison was about the first to follow.
Listening to the rumors of Mr. Dixon's money, he followed in
1833 and obtained employment teaching Mr. Dixon's children and
some others from Buffalo Grove. He used the old Dixon mansion
for his school room; thus the mansion became the first tavern,
the first store and the first school in Dixon and in Lee County.
Shortly thereafter, Mr. Robison moved to Melugin's Grove,
married a daughter of Zachariah Melugin and lived there
practically all the rest of his life.
Some few variations were attempted in
the route when settlements came into importance as they did with
great rapidity; but with the exception of a change to take in
Aurora when that place had reached a prominent position in the
census reports, little or no change ever was made in the famous
old Chicago road.
On March 2, 1839, the change was made to
Aurora. The road was to begin on the west bank of Fox River at
or near a house built by Harvey Bristol, occupied by Horace
Town, then west to strike the Dixon's Ferry road. Such was the
language of the act of the Legislature which authorized the
change. Road making at that time occupied the public mind quite
as much as it does today while we are talking about the Lincoln
Highway and other great road schemes. On the same day mentioned
above, the Legislature authorized the laying out of a road from
Dixon's Ferry to Linder, Union Grove and thence on to Fulton
City. Dixon was a center, it will be observed! On the same day
all roads established as county roads were declared to be state
roads and thereafter every Legislature dealt with the subject of
roads with greater frequency than any other subject.
On March 2, 1837, an act was passed by
the Legislature to view and lay out a road from Princeton in
"Putnam'' County, to intersect the state road leading from
Chicago to Dixon's Ferry in Ogle county. And this road actually
was laid out and it became the thoroughfare from Princeton to
Chicago. By the laying out of that road, Mr. George E. Haskell,
the Inlet merchant, secured a large volume of trade at his Inlet
store. Only a few days ago Mrs. Haskell told me that her
husband's trade was largely from the country over in the
direction of Princeton and that it was her custom always to put
up the customer for the night, feed him and Ins team and send
him back with the best of opinions of Mr. Haskell and his
generosity.
The commissioners to lay out that
Princeton branch of the Chicago road were men who subsequently
secured national fame. Their names were Charles Bryant, Joseph
Knox, and John Kemball.
As I have mentioned before, the road
designed to run from Lewiston to Galena never reached the period
of infancy. It died in childbirth. But the road from Beardstown
to Galena by way of Prophetstown, Savanna, Plum river on the
north and Henderson, Knoxville, Rushville on the south, came
near rivaling Kellogg's and Boles' trails out of existence.
Father Dixon had more to do with the ultimate extinction of the
Beardstown road than any other influence. He put it out of
commission just as he put the Galena land office out of
commission, and Dixon's Ferry was saved. The road was so
important in the eyes of the Legislature, that five
commissioners were appointed to lay it out: A. M. Seymour, of
Henry County; Asa Cook, of Whiteside County; Israel Mitchell, of
Jo Daviess County; Russel Tancrey, of Schuyler County, and G. A.
Charles of Knox County. The intention of the act was to create a
great state road.
One reason why many of the contemplated
north and south roads were failures, was the lack of bridges of
any character by which to cross the low ground which lay from
Lee county clear over to the Mississippi River.
On the Peoria road through Lee County,
the distance over marshy ground was made trifling by reason of
the narrowness of the strip which laid between Inlet and
Winnebago swamps (all then called Winnebago swamp). That at
times was very bad, but efforts were made early to afford the
traveler a passage over, sometimes perilous, but nevertheless
certain. The older method already has been recited by the Lee
Center lady.
On Feb. 19, 1839, Henry W. Cleaveland,
obtained an act of the Legislature, by which he was granted the
privilege of building a bridge across the Winnebago swamp, and
this bridge and its necessary causeway were to be finished by a
certain date in 1840. Like every other venture authorized in
those days it was not finished on time and Cleaveland had his
franchise extended on Feb. 26, 1841, to Dec. 1, 1841, in which
to finish his bridge and causeway.
The causeway was to be raised at least
three feet above the sur-face of adjacent ground and was to
extend north or south of the bridge across Green river so as to
embrace all the wet ground. It was to be made of good timber,
and was to be covered with earth. Furthermore, the bridge need
not be more than fifteen feet wide. Mr. Cleaveland dallied until
Feb. 3, 1843, when a supplementary act was passed amending the
original act so that "it shall not be so construed as to compel
the said Cleaveland, his associates, etc., to use timber or
stone in the erection of the causeway across Winnebago swamp
only at such place or places where it is absolutely necessary.
"Section 2. Said Cleaveland may procure
one disinterested householder of Lee County to examine the
bridge and causeway; the county commissioners another and the
two so chosen to select a third and if they think the bridge and
causeway are completed according to law and this explanation,
they shall file an affidavit thereof in the office of the clerk,
which shall be satisfactory evidence until contrary appears."
That ended Cleaveland's legislation.
The road was made of dirt and timbers,
but many times the dirt left the logs beneath and then all the
tortures of travel on a corduroy road were endured.
In another part of this book, (May
town,) there has been written a faithful and very interesting
story about this noted old causeway and its history, good and
bad. It tells of the old toll house and tavern, so lonesome that
flies and mosquitoes fled when they chanced that way. The
murders too are told minutely.
The old Galena, Dixon, Chicago road,
which became the ultimate stage road and state road, was
surveyed by Capt. Joseph Naper of Naperville in 1833. The first
stage coach on this stage-mail route to leave Dixon started
eastward Jan. 1, 1834.
On Jan. 12, 1836, John Boles and James
L. Kirkpatrick were, by enactment, permitted to build a toll
bridge over "Fever River, at or near a place in Galena, called
Meeker's furnace and at the termination of the state road."
On Feb. 10, 1835, a bill was approved
which authorized the laying out of a state road from Chicago to
Galena, crossing Rock River at the residence of John Phelps
(Oregon). And the road, passing through Sycamore and St.
Charles, was surveyed duly, and used for many years, under the
provisions of an act approved March 4, 1837.
On the same Feb. 10th, the act was
approved authorizing the survey of the road from "the Paw Paw
Grove, on the road leading from Chicago to Dixon's Ferry,
running from said grove by the groves on the headwaters of
Bureau River, to the settlements at Dimick's Grove, on said
stream, and from thence to Princeton, so as best to accommodate
the inhabitants between those points, and from Princeton, on the
shortest and best route to the county seat of Rock Island
County.'' The reader will find this road mentioned many times in
the history of Sublette, through which township it passed. But
evidently, either the route was unsatisfactory or some hitch
halted it until Feb. 24, 1843, when another act authorized
Commissioners William Hoskins, Robert E. Thompson and Enos Smith
of Bureau county to view, survey, mark, locate and establish a
state road from Princeton, via Dover and LaMoille to the
intersection of the state road leading from Paw Paw to
Princeton.
I am convinced the road had been built
already and that this act, but changed it somewhat, because in
the title, the word review is used.
Among other measures put through various
Legislatures to amend old roads and make new ones, was one
passed Jan. 14, 1836, to straighten out the road from Peoria to
Dixon, and James Wilson of Tazewell County, Henry Thomas of
Putnam County and Simon Reed of Peoria County, were appointed
commissioners "to view, survey, mark and locate a state road, to
commence at the courthouse in Peoria, running thence by the most
direct route to Bock River, to strike the same at a point on the
first rapids below Dixon's Ferry; thence by the most direct
route to Galena."
For this work, which by the way never
was done, the commissioners were to be paid $2 per day, which,
with the surveyors and chainmen's fees were to be paid by
William Kirkpatrick of Rock River. In consideration therefore,
Lid Kirkpatrick was to be permitted to build a toll bridge
across the Winnebago swamp, at the place where said road crossed
the swamp. The bill was passed to help Kirkpatrick and for no
other purpose, and like so many others, failed.
On Feb. 27, 1837, an act was approved
authorizing the survey of a road from Peoria via Wappelo and
Savanna to Galena. But like most other roads designed to attack
the Dixon road, nothing successful ever came of it. The
Cleaveland charter, under the act of Feb. 19, 1839, superseded
all others, just as in the earlier years it had preceded them.
May 3, 1843, Morris Walrod of DeKalb,
Reuben Pritchard of Ogle, and Bela T. Hunt of Kane county, were
appointed commissioners to lay out, mark and locate a state road
from Chicago via St. Charles, Sycamore, Coltonville and Browdies'
Grove to Dixon. The bill also conferred the power to assess
damages as well as estimate the advantages and disadvantages.
This bill was designed to draw to Sycamore some of the
importance which had become attached to places along the more
southerly route and unite at Sycamore, the Oregon and the Dixon
routes. But nothing ever came of it.
The state road, LaSalle to Inlet, where
it intersected the Chicago road was authorized by act of March
3, 1843, and it was the road which crossed Sublette Township and
subsequently was used extensively. To locate this road Zimri
Lewis and Jarvis Swift of LaSalle county and George E. Haskell
of Lee County, were appointed commissioners.
Evidently, once a state road had been
located, it remained a fixture until subsequent legislation
changed it, because in looking over the session Taws, I found
many instances where old routes were vacated either by change or
abandonment. The Dixon-Peoria road was no exception. On March 2,
1843, so much of the Peoria-Galena road via Osceola and Wappello
(spelling of the act followed), was vacated, "as is located
across block 1, Hale's second addition to Peoria, and extending
diagonally across said block from Main to Hamilton street."
The last road worthy of notice, which I
find, was authorized by act of Feb. 12, 1849, and it appointed
Commissioners Henry Porter of Lee, Henry Childs of Bureau and J.
P. Thompson of LaSalle, to locate it from Peru to Knox's Grove,
in the town of Sublette.
The trails are gone. In Lee County, the
banditti of the prairie gave them many chapters of desperate
deeds. They lent an atmosphere and an action which made brave
men tremble, but which now have the lure of memories are more
pleasing. Like all the other problems which confronted the old
pioneer, he met and conquered the desperado, the corduroy road,
the storm and poverty. What a fight that brave old warrior made!
What a brave old soul that hardy fearless pioneer was I If he
were alive today, he would hark back to the scenes with the same
interest we do and with perhaps a secret pleasure that he was in
at the beginning and that he was in at the death, too, of the
regime of terror and trouble.
Do you now cavil because I have spent so
much time upon the first days of this fertile and prosperous
county of ours where lands sell for fabulous sums; where men
drive miles in less time than the pioneer drove inches.
Lee County
History
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