When the King of France Visited Sanford
The harvest season of 1797 found Col.
Emery's tavern, in the little town of Sanford, in a great stir
and bustle of preparation for guests of noble birth. No less a
personage than Louis Philippe of France, accompanied by his two
brothers, the Duke de Montpensier and the Count de Beaujolais,
and by the Duke of Talleyrand, would pass through South Sanford,
on a certain day, on their way to Portland, and it was expected
that they would tarry there and "put up at the ordinary," for a
night, at least.
At that time South Sanford was the
business center of the town and not the busy manufacturing
village we know as such.
As you may think, much butchering and
baking was going on. The old Colonel had the best of the
provisions carried over from his store, just across the way, and
he even made a special trip to Portland to get such luxuries as
white sugar and coffee, which he did not always keep in stock,
they were so little used by any but the wealthy. It wasn't the
custom to decorate in honor of famous guests, but every-thing
about the tavern was made spick and span.
None were more interested in these
preparations than the three small boys of the tavern. They were
the grandsons of Col. Caleb Emery, who was still owner of the
tavern, though the active management had been passed over to his
son, William, father of the boys. Caleb, his grandfather's
namesake, was ten years old; Thomas was nine years old and
William six.
These boys, in after years, took great
pride in telling how Louis Philippe, King of France, visited at
their home, although, at the time of his visit, he wasn't king
at all, but the Duke of Chartres; and no one could know that he
was destined for the throne of France.
But you are wondering why this
distinguished personage should be visiting the "wilds of Maine,"
which were very much wilder then than they are now. He had taken
part in the revolution going on in France at that time, and he
and his family were among those who had incurred the wrath of
royalty, so that their great estates had been seized by the
crown and they had been obliged to flee for their lives to other
countries. As it was, the father of Louis Philippe was executed
four years before the time of this story and Louis and his
brothers and sister judged it wise to stay away until French
politics should become more settled.
Before the death of his father Louis had
dropped his title of Duke and adopted the name of plain M.
Egalite.
Unrecognized, he had lived for a year in
Switzerland, teaching French and mathematics. Now, for nearly a
year, he had been traveling in America. If the Sanford people
did not know that they were entertaining a future king of
France, neither did Louis Philippe know that he was visiting the
future State of Maine, for it was then a part of Massachusetts.
Although more than twenty years had passed since the signing of
the Declaration of Independence, forever banishing titled
nobility from America, the people still felt a wholesome respect
for dukes and counts and no little curiosity concerning them.
You may be sure the Emery boys were the envy of all the village
lads, who would be lucky if they got a glimpse of the great
visitors through the coach windows or as they alighted in the
tavern yard, while Caleb and Thomas Emery were to spend the
night under the very roof with them!
For hours the boys watched the post road
for the private coach, in which the Duke and his party were
travelling. And, after all, he wasn't so much to see! "Just a
man," and a young man at that, plain and respectable looking
enough, with a serious face. Where were the velvets and gold
embroideries which they had supposed nobility always wore? This
young man was enveloped in a long, dark traveling cloak and
carried an umbrella. One of his companions was pointed out to
the boys as the Duke of Talleyrand, who, at that time, was more
celebrated and regarded with more interest than the king-to-be.
He walked with a limp, which he tried to conceal, and altogether
was not prepossessing to boyish eyes, looking for dash and
military bearing.
The Emery boys were frankly disappointed
in the future king of France. He had, to be sure, a certain air
of distinction and polish, but it was quite lost on them. Caleb
and Thomas thought him decidedly inferior in appearance to their
grand-father, who was larger and looked quite imposing, dressed
for the reception of the ducal party in his swallow-tailed,
cutaway coat resplendent with brass buttons and a wide white
collar, his silver watch chain, with its heavy fob, dangling
across the wide expanse of his buff vest.
Col. Caleb Emery was, indeed, a man of
importance in Sanford. He was the first postmaster of the town
(the post-office having been established two years before this
memorable visit), he was the village merchant and tavern-keeper,
a justice of the peace, colonel of the militia and deacon of the
church. He was on all committees of importance, for South
San-ford never thought of doing anything without the Colonel at
the head of it. In politics he always had been prominent. He had
been selectman, town clerk and deputy sheriff in turn and he was
sent as the first representative of his district to the General
Court in 1785. He had a military record, too, for he had taken
part in the Lake George Expedition at the time of the French and
Indian War, and in the Expedition to Rhode Island during the
Revolution.
All the children of the neighborhood
liked Col. Emery. Although an austere man, he had ever a kindly
greeting for children and his capacious pockets and saddle-bags
were always full of apples (a great luxury in those days) from
his big orchard. These he distributed with a lavish hand among
the children wherever he went.
His small grandsons adored him. He was
still a handsome man, despite his years and his large nose, for
it was a common joke, made all in good nature, that the Colonel
was obliged to turn his nose one side while eating.
Of course the boys were not allowed in the dining-room on this
important occasion, but they could peep in as the door opened
and shut when the serving maids passed in and out.
The meal was not served in courses, but
the guest table was loaded with good things, according to the
New England fashion. Probably never before nor after did Louis
Philippe of France partake of just such feasts as those he got
in New England. There were haunches of venison, spareribs of the
choicest porkers, huge roasts of beef, stuffed turkey, Indian
bannock baked over the coals on the kitchen hearth, baked beans
and Indian pudding which had baked for a day and a night in the
great brick oven, pancakes with maple syrup and pumpkin pies.
The tables were flanked with big pitchers of cider, a beverage
entirely new to the guests from France, besides the luxurious
tea and coffee.
The Colonel himself escorted his honored
guests to their places and saw that they were assiduously served
from Grandmother Emery's best dishes, spread on snowy homespun
linen. It is said that the Duke and his party enjoyed their
meals at the Emery tavern.
The boys got a better look at the
visitors on their way from the dining-room to the front parlor,
but their wild hopes of slipping in unobserved were shattered by
their being sent off to bed as soon as their supper was eaten.
Morning found them up with the sun in order that they might not
miss the departure of the ducal coach. They need not have
troubled themselves. The future King of France was not an early
riser and perhaps he found Grandmother Emery's best bed of live
goose feathers particularly grateful after the hard journey of
the previous day. Anyway, he had his breakfast served to him in
his bedroom.
Louis Philippe and his party remained a
day or two at Col. Emery's tavern. And what do you suppose
pleased Louis most, among all the new and to him strange things,
in this part of the new country! The pictures that hung on the
walls of the ''spare room" which he occupied. They were by
French artists, their titles in the French language, and these
reminders looked wonderfully good to the exiled duke.
Twenty-eight years later another
distinguished guest from France was entertained at this same
tavern, one who was largely influential in putting Louis
Philippe on the throne of France. It was the Marquis de
Lafayette, on his memorable visit to America in 1824-5. He
stopped there, so it is claimed, on his way to Portland and for
this reason the old house, which was quite a palatial one for
those days, was for many years known as the Lafayette Tavern.
This old landmark, a square, rambling, two-storied house, could
be seen in South Sanford, until a very few years ago, when it
was torn down.
Another notable occasion in the boyhood
of Caleb, Thomas and William Emery came two years after the
visit of Louis Philippe, at the death of George Washington. On
the day of the funeral the town's militia paraded the streets of
South Sanford.
With thrills mingled with awe, the boys
watched the company under command of Major Samuel Nasson march,
with arms reversed, to the muffled beat of drums, toward the
tavern.
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The Lafayette Tavern, Sanford |
There they were received by Col. Emery
and given refreshment, as was the custom of the day.
Washington did not seem such a far-away
and shadowy personage to the Emery boys as he does to the boys
and girls of our day. He was as real to Caleb and Thomas as
Theodore Roosevelt today is to you.
Several Sanford veterans had been With
Washington, two of them through the terrible winter at Valley
Forge, and they spoke quite familiarly of Gen. Washington, when,
around the blazing fire at the Emery Tavern, they related their
hardships and sufferings.
Only ten years before his death (Thomas
was a baby then) Washington actually had visited Kittery Point.
It was the one and only time the Father of his Country was in
Maine and he considered the visit of enough importance to
mention in his diary.
The boys frequently rode with their
grandfather to Kittery, which was but a few miles from their
home. This town was the birthplace and old home of both the
Colonel and his wife. It had been related to the lads, many
times, how Washington, on that visit, went fishing with Parson
Stevens and a party of friends. Caleb wished he had been born a
few years sooner, so that he might, perchance, have gone to
Kittery to see the great man; and he never could understand why
his grandfather had neglected to find out what luck President
Washington had when he went fishing in Kittery.
Emmie Bailey Whitney
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